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reverse application 1. With Reverse Application you can quickly change your clients white or colored acrylic tips, move the smile line down and sculpt a new colored. You can create very crisp smile lines even when using dark colored acrylics or glitters. It is very important that you have completed all the steps in NAIL PREPARATION tutorial before you proceed with this tutorial. 2. See PROPER MIX RATIO to learn about getting the right consistency to your acrylic beads. I am going to use a sheer pink acrylic powder for the nail bed. After the nail has been properly prepared for acrylic application apply a medium size bead a little bit away from the cuticle. 3. Let the bead settle for a second then gently push the acrylic forward toward the cuticle but not touching it. 4. Push the acrylic into one corner of the cuticle and down the sidewall and then into the other corner and down that sidewall. 5. When you have the product where you want it, wipe excess liquid out of your brush and then using the flat side of your oval brush feather the acrylic in the cuticle area to smooth the ridge and eliminate excess filing later. 6. Using a little more pressure with the brush you can still press and smooth out the product to refine the shape of the acrylic. 7. The entire nail bed is now covered in acrylic. Once the product has dried you can proceed to the next step. 8. *These next two images are only to demonstrate how to hold the finger when e-filing the smile line. Do not be confused that the nail has white on the tip.* Grasp the finger like in the image. It is important that you hold the finger secure and at the same time slightly pull back the sides of the finger. 9. While grasping the finger securely with your left hand...brace your right hand with your pinky. 10. *Now to proceed with our nail.* While holding the finger as in the two above images use the Carbide Bit to cut a smile line into the shear pink acrylic. Start in one corner and file a nice line down and up into the other corner to create a crisp smile line. To prevent heat from building up you will want to work fairly quickly. You can file the line shallow at first and then go back and file the smile line a little deeper. 11. In this image I am going back to make sure I have removed enough product. 12. So that from the side view you can see a definite ledge that we will push our white or colored acrylic up against. 13. With a hand file I am going back to refine the outline of the nail. I want to make sure that I have the sides filed in enough. 14. ...and shape the free edge just a little. 15. Now apply forms. To learn about applying forms correctly see APPLYING NAIL FORMS. 16. In this image I will use a pink colored acrylic. You can use any color of acrylic or glitter or white acrylic. Place one acrylic bead at the end of the nail on the nail form. 17. Press the product up into one corner of the smile. 18. And then up into the other corner. At this point it is not neccesary to keep the smile line clean. You can overlap the tip color onto the smile line, just make sure you have the product tucked all the way up into the corners. 19. With the middle of your brush you can press and shape the product so that you will have less filing later. 20. You can see in this image that I have overlapped the pink acrylic over the smile line. 21. With a Carbide Bit refine the smile line, removing excess product. 22. When the excess acrylic has been removed you will be left with a crisp smile line. 23. Hold the finger firmly and refine the upper arch. 24. With a 180 grit abrasive file the sides of the nail in to create a clean line. 25. Then shorten and shape the end of the nail. 26. With a sponge buffer remove any sharp edges and do some final smoothing and buffing. 27. Finish with clear coat and you are done.

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